After introducing you to the joy of treasure hunting at Paris' brocantes and flea markets in my last post, I thought I would share with you Gourmet's favorite spots to do just that. Between the two of us, you'll know just where to look for that special souvenir.
LES PUCES DE SAINT-OUEN
Saturday through Monday
(More commonly known as Clignancourt, or simply as Les Puces. Note that there are a number of markets within Les Puces and numerous stands within each market.)
7 R. Jules-Vallès (Marché des Antiquaires); between Porte de St.-Ouen and Porte de Clignancourt, just outside the 18th.
At Marché Serpette (110 R. des Rosiers), I often frequent Le Monde du Voyage (Allée 3, Stand 15), where I rummage through a bin of old (mostly Hermès) scarves. If you have a bit more money, the vintage luggage—old steamer trunks, Hermès bags, pieces from Goyard—is wonderful. The stand doesn’t try to pass them off as new or never worn; they show the previous lives they have lived and are all the richer for it. —Amy Koblenzer
Françoise Schuler (Allée 1, Stand 33), at the Marché Vernaison (136 Ave. Michelet), has the most wonderful 18th- and 19th-century clothing, tablecloths and napkins. Everything is irresistible, and nothing was made later than 1930. —Ruth Reichl
Marie-Louise von Krusenstierna (first floor, Stand 195), at the Marché Dauphine (140 R. des Rosiers), is a fabulous vintage-photo dealer with very fair prices. At Nicole Aker’s Ma Maison (Stand 119), in the Marché Malassis (142 R. des Rosiers), the specialty is French housewares and kitchenware from the 1950s. It’s all reasonably priced and incredibly fun. —Alexander Lobrano
At the Marché Paul Bert (96 R. des Rosiers), you’ll find old cocoa and tea tins; boxy, crane-necked Jieldé architect’s lamps from the 1950s; cast-off school desks; and rusted, curlicued wrought-iron garden doors. The best deals are to be found at Le Passage (20 R. Jules-Vallès), which specializes in items (anything from wooden plane propellers to porcelain door knobs to 1970s psychedelic textiles) requiring serious refurbishment. —Marisa Robertson-Textor
Monday mornings at Clignancourt, everything is picked over, but it’s quiet, and I always find something that makes my heart sing. (Also, look in Pariscope for information on public brocantes , where there’s all sorts of sublime secondhand stuff.) —Jessica Harris
Monday through Sunday
R. du Marché-Popincourt, 11th.
There’s an area in the 11th, around the Rue du Marché-Popincourt, where a group of collectibles dealers sells all sorts of architectural stuff. —Kemp Minifie
Monday through Saturday
Place d’Aligre, 12th.
This is great in part because it’s so unlike Clignancourt: not fancy, more like a bunch of yard sales set up on tables. —K.M.
MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE MONTREUIL
Saturday through Monday
Ave. de la Porte de Montreuil, 20th.
“Used” bikes tend to turn up here. —Kate Winslow
MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE LA PORTE DE VANVES
Saturday and Sunday
Ave. Georges-Lafenestre at Ave. Marc-Sangnier, 14th.
This market, where stalls and tables are simply set up on two intersecting streets, is especially good for glassware, crockery, porcelain and copper cookware, for linens—soft French tea towels, tablecloths—and for quirky things like tin canister sets and hooks and handles. The vendors aren’t necessarily the same on Saturday and Sunday, so you can go both days. —J.H.
PUCES DU DESIGN
Two weekends a year
Quai de la Loire, on the banks of the Bassin de la Villette, 19th.
This market, specializing in 20th-century furniture, clothing, and objets d’art , takes place two weekends a year, in May or June and October. Big-game hunters will find their Saarinen and Eames, but there’s something for everyone. A service ferries visitors up the Canal St.-Martin from La Bastille. —M.R.T.
Reprinted with permission from Gourmet: “An Antique Table”